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Calming Actives

Vital ET

Manufacturer: ISP

INCI: Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates

Application:  Vital ET is a combination of Tocopheryl Phosphate with the vectoring agent Disodium Lauriminodipropionate.  This product is shown to reduce the erythema level of inflamed acne lesions and reduce the height of acne lesions (page 5).  It is also used to reduce Pre-and Post-UV induced erythema on intact skin by a significant amount (page 6).  Finally it will reduce the irritation induced by razor usage on skin.  

Cost:  22 lb pail  @ $25.27/lb

Use Level: 2-3%

 

Sepicalm S

Manufacturer: Seppic

INCI:  Sodium cocoylaminoacids and sarcosine and magnesium aspartate and potassium aspartate.

Application:  This is a reaction of a lipophillic coco fatty chain with Aspartic, Glutamic, Alanine and glycine (Oat Essential Amino Acids). This reaction makes Sodium Cocylamino acids which are then blended with magnesium and Potassium.  Sepicalm S works on reducing irritation due to Solar (UV exposure), Mechanical Irritation and Chemical Irritation.    It has a excellent effect on reducing UV induced erythema,  Stinging from AHA’s or BHA’s, and reduction of erythema due to mechanical stress.  It also has functions in increasing Beta Endorphins and reducing inflammatory cytokines.  This leading to a Improved Well Being of the skin.   It has anti-free radical activity, anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase activity.  It also functions as an excellent moisturizer of the skin.

Cost:  25 kgs @ $ 67.50 /kg

Use Level: 2-3%

 

NanoCacao

Manufacturer:  Mibelle AG Biochemistry

NanoCacao: Theobroma Cacao Extract / Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Tocopherol (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua/Water

Application:  Based on a MacroNano Emulsion of Chocolate,  this unique active is full an Anandamide’s which relax muscles, soothes the nerve endings and acts to keep histamine from degranulating.   This active is used to slow down muscle contraction which will decrease the size and depth of wrinkles and to promote a “well-being” of the skin.

 

Sepivital C

Manufacturer:  Seppic

INCI:  Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate

Application:  This is a reaction between Ascorbic Acid and dl-alpha Tocopheryl Phosphoric acid.  The new molecule is a safe alternative to both Vit C and Vit. E.  It has anti-oxidant activity by inhibiting lipo peroxidases and anti-inflammatory properities by it’s activity as anti-phospholipase, anti-cyclooxygenase, anti-lipooxygenase and anti-hyaluronidase. It is used in anti-aging products, anti-stress and products to restore the correct balance of the skin.  

Cost:  $ 6,800 /kg (use level is 0.01%)

 

CM-Glucan P

Manufacturer:  Mibelle AG Biochemistry

INCI:  Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan (and) phenoxyethanol (and) water

Applications:  CM-Glucan is a water soluble â glucan derivative from yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae).  This is a powerful active that will enhance the skin’s resistance to oxidative stress induced by UV Radiation as well as other environmental hazards.

Use level:  2%

 

AquaCacteen

Manufacturer:  Mibelle AG Biochemistry

INCI:  Opuntia Streptacantha Stem Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Water/Aqua

Applications:  This is a water based extract of exzymatically treated cactus powder (Opuntia Streptacantha Stem) from Mexico.  The extract is shown to prevent the reduction of skin firmness due to UV-A,  it will reduce irritation due to environmental irritatants, and mimics the action of lidocaine post aggression.

 

Happybelle-PE

Manufacturer:  Mibelle AG Biochemistry

INCI:  Lecithin (and) Vitex Agnus Castus Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Cyclodextrin (and) Alcohol (and) Aqua/Water

Applications:  Happybelle PE is a phyto-endorphin complex based on Monk’s Pepper Extract.  The Monks’ Pepper extract is known for its mood-enhancing activity and to give the skin a radiant glow.   It also contains powerful antioxidants for anti-aging and hydration of the skin.  The components are formulated in a double vector system of cyclodextrins and liposomes/nanosomes.

 

Sepifeel One

Manufacturer: Seppic

INCI: Palmitoyl proline (and) Magnesium palmitoylglutamate (and) Sodium palmitoylsarcosinate

Applications:  Whereas this is not a active to reduce irritation, Sepifeel One is a reaction of different amino acids and minerals to give body, pickup and ease of spreading to emulsions and lotions.  At low use levels (1-3%) Sepifeel One will give a perceived and soothing effects on emulsions on the skin.

Cost:  25 kgs @ $ 83.35 /kg